经济学人大解惑 - 为什么时尚周不再时尚了？
Why fashion week is passé
为什么时尚周不再时尚了？
The Economist explains
Why fashion week is passé
Mar 8th 2016, 23:00 BY C.H.
http://www.economist.com/blogs/economist-explains/2016/03/economist-explains-5
DESIGNERS should love fashion week. It is the culmination of months of work. Celebrities clamour to attend their shows, then study each model as if the world’s future rested on the cut of a skirt. But designers are pouting about the biannual ritual—so much so that the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) commissioned America’s perhaps least glamourous group, management consultants, to explore their complaints. The Boston Consulting Group interviewed more than 50 people, including designers, editors, bloggers and retailers. The result of that study was published last week. So why is fashion week no longer fashionable?
设计师们应该要很爱时尚周才对。这是好几个月工作后的绝顶高潮(咩按：??)。名人们喧嚣簇拥的参加这场盛事，接著开始研究各个妈豆，搞得好像全世界的未来得靠一件裙子的剪裁一样。
但设计师们却对这一年两度的例行公事嘟嘟囔囊起来，其程度已经高到让美国时尚设计师协会，得派出一群或许是美国里最不迷人的～管理顾问们，来了解设计师们的抱怨。
波士顿顾问团队跟超过五十个，诸如设计师、编辑、部落客以及零售商等面谈。研究结果在上周出炉。揪竟，为什么时尚周不再时尚了呢？
Fashion week used to serve a distinct purpose. Designers would prepare collections and present clothes to the press, to major retailers and to select other industry insiders. Fashion editors would then prepare sumptuous magazine spreads featuring the clothes they liked best. Retailers would order this or that dress. About four to six months later, those clothes would appear in shops.
时尚周在过去是别有目的滴。设计师们会准备好目录，接著把衣服展示给媒体、大宗零售商以及其他精挑细选过的业内人士。
这个时候，时尚编辑们会准备华奢富丽的杂志照片，来主打他们自己喜欢的衣服。零售商则会说我要订这件，我要订那件。大概四到六个月后，这些衣服就会出现在服饰店里。
(咩按：阿不就是穿著PRADA的恶魔？)
Technology has upended all this. As soon as models sashay down the runway, photographs are posted online and shared endlessly through social media. Fast-fashion brands copy designers’ styles (though the industry prefers the euphemism “interpret”), often stocking look-alikes in their shops before designers’ own clothes make it to department stores. When designers’ clothes do arrive, they seem stale . It is no coincidence that the world's top two retailers are TJX and Inditex. TJX buys brand-name clothes from stores that can't sell them at full price, then offers them at a deep discount. Inditex owns Zara, the pioneer in fast fashion.
但科技翻转了这一切。正当妈豆故作优雅的走下伸展台那瞬间，照片就已经po到网路上而且透过社群网路不断的分享出去。
快速时尚品牌则会复制设计师的风格(虽然他们业界比较偏好用”重新诠释”这个委婉的词汇)，通常在百货公司还没有上架之前，就已经在他们店里看到类似款式的衣服。结果当设计师的衣服上架时，反而显得不潮了。
世界最大的两个零售商叫做TJX跟印地纺，绝对不是凑巧碰上的。TJX是从商店里收购一些没办法用原价卖出的名牌衣服，然后自己大打折扣的卖出去。而印地纺手上有Zara，也就是快速时尚的先锋。
(咩按：TJX在美国是卖过季跟折扣商品最大的零售商，T.J.Maxx就是他们家的)
Few designers like the current system. Less obvious is what they should do next. One idea is for fashion houses to show clothes to only certain people, such as retailers and some press. Designers would stage a bigger, public presentation four to six months later, when those clothes are available in stores. There would, of course, be the threat that some images would leak. Another idea would be to continue the current system, but make a small subset of clothes available immediately. Designers are already testing new ideas. Burberry and Tom Ford, for example said their September fashion shows would show clothes available immediately. For the forseeable future, experimentation will be in vogue.
很少设计师喜欢现在这样的体制。他们接下来应该怎么做就没那么显而易见了。
有个好主意可以给设计公司试试，就是只把衣服展示给特定的人看，像是零售商或媒体。设计师可以在四到六个月后，等到衣服在店里都买得到的时候，再办个大型一点的公开发表会。当然，总是会有照片外流的风险。
另一个想法是继续现在这样的体制，但是让一小部分的衣服立刻上架。设计师们已经在测试新的点子。比方说Burberry跟Tom Ford就宣布他们九月的时装秀会展示立马就买得到的衣服。
在可以预见的未来，时尚实验，正在流行。
(咩按：FOREVER 21, GAP, H&M等是知名的快速时尚品牌, 依照本文的说法，他们不是高档名牌服饰的零售商，而是复制者。快速时尚品牌可参见
