第二天早上我们挺早就醒了，事实上Dustin根本一夜没睡。起床后终于有精神洗澡，发现hostal的水没有网路上游客说得那么小就放心了。

We woke up pretty early the next morning. In fact, Dustin didn't sleep at all. I finally gather myself and took a shower and felt relieved that the water wasn't trickling, as described by other travelers who had stayed here before.

 

我们前两晚都在pochon hostal住的，由于在网路上预约被收了手续费，第二天早上我们就在hostal吃了他们准备的早餐想赚回一点本金。厨房里有两名妇女准备早餐，一个负责把水果切块分装成一碗一碗，另一个负责做omelette/ pancake，豆子加queso，此外非常水的咖啡、果冻跟面包都是可以无限续的。这天早上不出所料地便秘了，所以默默决定要尽量吃辣的跟蔬果，希望不要整趟旅行都在便秘中度过，落得跟跑去日本玩结果一直便秘最后一天用力拉屎到中风的台湾大学女生一样的下场…

We booked the first two nights at pochon hostal. Due to the booking fees charged by some shameless website, we decided to eat the breakfast they provided at the hostal. Two women were preparing in the kitchen, one cutting fruits into small pieces and placing them in a bowl, the other making omelettes/ pancakes, beans with queso. The very watery coffee, jelly, and bread were unlimited. As expected, I constipated that morning. So I decided that today I had to eat something as hot as possible or as many vegetables and fruits as possible, hoping that I wouldn't have to live with constipation during the whole trip, ending up like the Taiwanese college girl who went to Japan and constipated the whole time so tried to make some poop but tried so hard that she had a stroke and was sent to the hospital...

 

白天的Oaxaca Ciudad跟晚上很不一样，车水马龙、人声喧闹的，走没几步我们就发现一条颜色很鲜艳的小巷，开始疯狂拍照。

During daytime, Oaxaca Ciudad looked very different from night time. Lots of traffic and all kinds of sounds. We found an alley filled with bright colors and started to take pictures.

又在自以为是亚洲明星了…

Dustin's pretending to be an Asian star again.

 

然后我们突然发现我的裙子的妙用，就开始疯狂转圈圈 （不过我还是比较喜欢我的相机的饱满色调）。

And then we realized what my skirt could do, so I started to do circles (I prefer the intense hues captured by my camera more though).

走到底端有一个喷水池，到处开满了紫色的花，墙壁上有好笑的句子："我想写点什么，虽然我不知道要写什么"

At the end of the alley, there were a fountain and lots of purple flowers. On the wall we found something funny written by someone unknown, "I want to write something, but I don't know what to write."

往Zocalo去的路上有很多路段都在施工，工人们顶著大太阳站在深深的沟里劳动。但很奇怪的是几乎没有人穿著短裤，大部分人都相当保守，甚至在这么热的天还是穿长袖或外套。

On the way to Zocalo, we saw many roads in construction. Workers had to stand in the deep ditches, under the scorching sun. What was strange was that almost no one wore any shorts. Most people are very conservative and still put on long sleeves or even jackets in such weather.

才刚到新环境不敢做出不雅动作（钻到女人偶裙子下面）拍照的Dustin。

Dustin wanted but dared not make obscene posture (getting under the woman figurine's skirt) to take a picture because we were still new to town.

后来我天天经过发现这些空瓶子天天都在这。

Afterwards, I passed by everyday and found that these empty bottles were here everyday.

终于来到Zocalo，报摊。

The kiosk in Zocalo.

在广场走来走去发现有一群家长拿著相机围绕著小孩，似乎是某种化装舞会。

We strolled in Zocalo, finding a group of parents holding cameras at their children. It seemed like some costume party in the morning.

这只长颈鹿异常愉悦活泼，老远就看到他的长颈鹿头随著他的舞步上下晃呀晃的。

This giraffe was extraordinarily joyous and lively. We could see his giraffe head dangling along with his dance from a distance.

 

这天的行程就是了解市中心，观察路人，品尝美食。我们发现一间位置很好的hostal（我们前两晚住的地方走到广场要15分钟），就在菜市场隔壁，而且进去参观以后发现采光好、充满开放空间、价格又比我们原本住的便宜10 pesos，当场真希望可以退掉我们住的地方直接搬过来…

Our agenda for today was to know about Zocalo, people watching, and food. We discovered a hostal with excellent location, right next to the market (pochon hostal is about 15 minutes by walk from Zocalo). We went inside and liked the open common areas, the natural lighting, and the price (10 pesos cheaper than pochon each). I wished that we could just move to this hostal right away...

我们打算隔天要去看世界著名的古文化遗迹Monte Albán，所以四处打听了半日/一日游的行程。

We planned to visit the world-famous ruin site Monte Albán the next day, so we asked around how much the tours cost and about the transportation.

 

结果走著走著我还没消化完早餐，Dustin竟然就嚷著要去吃午餐了…所以我们走进传统市场，先绕几圈看各家菜单，顺便看那一摊的本地客人最多（因为这样通常表示味道道地而且价格实惠），最后挑了一家顾客前脚才走座位马上被补上的店面，坐下来点了Oaxaca最出名的酱料mole料理。Mole是以多种香料制成的酱料，有黑、红、绿、黄四种，墨西哥人也喜欢把mole加到巧克力里增添风味。Dustin点了mole negro，我点了mole rojo，配上一块鸡肉跟一些饭（非常好吃的饭，虽然不像我们的米很黏，而是松松散散的，但似乎煮的时候加了蒜末，香得要命），还有一盘吃也吃不完的tortillas（一盘大概五六片，我们各吃两片就差不多了，但是墨西哥人可以吃完一盘再续一盘）。

By the time when Dustin said he wanted to have lunch, I was still trying to digest my breakfast. So we went to check out traditional markets. There are two markets, one selling non-cooked food products, and the other mostly food stands. We walked around to see everyone's menu and observed which one had the most local customers (because it usually means that they make good authentic Mexican food at cheaper prices), and we picked a restaurant where vacant seats are quickly filled by the next customers and ordered the well-known mole dish. Mole is a sauce made from many spices. There are four types of mole, mole negro, mole rojo, mole verde, and amarillo. Mexicans also like to put mole into chocolate for flavor. Dustin ordered mole negro, I mole rojo. It came with a piece of chicken and some rice (Very good rice, not as sticky as the rice in Taiwan/ Asia, but rather loose. They seemed to add garlic powder when cooking the rice, so the rice had an appealing flavor.), and a plate of never-ending tortillas (There were about 5 or 6 in one plate. 2 for each of us was about the limit, but Mexicans could finish a plate easily and ask for more).

中间那碗白白像稀饭的是我点的atole，墨西哥人用来配早点的热饮，其实就是甜甜的燕麦粥，很不错。这样一餐只要45 pesos（25/mole，5/atole）。

The bowl of white soup is my atole, the hot drink that goes with breakfast. It's actually sweet oatmeal. I like it a lot. This meal only cost us 45 pesos (25 pesos/ mole and 5 pesos/ atole).

隔壁是鸡摊，墨西哥的鸡天生都是黄皮肤～非常酷，鸡肉吃起来比美国鸡肉好吃多了，比较有弹性。

Next to this stand is a chicken stand. Mexican chickens are naturally of yellow skin. It tastes a lot better (chewier) than American chicken.

菜市场里面的模样。

Inside the market.

市场外面的摊子。

A stand outside the market.

吃完以后Dustin跑去隔壁菜市场（以各种非熟食商品为主）买了释迦口味的冰沙（20 pesos），要价有点过高。我在广场上买了一杯酸梅口味的挫冰（10 pesos）。

Afterwards, Dustin went to buy some fruit smoothie (20 pesos), kinda expensive. I bought a cup of shaved ice with tamarindo flavor (10 pesos).

然后我们又在炎热的广场上晃来晃去，广场上的大教堂，到处都有像右下角那样的妇女顶著商品四处叫卖。

Then we roamed the plaza again. We could see women carrying their merchandise walking around and trying to sell stuff everywhere, like the woman in the bottom right.

晃到Dustin想放尿，就跑去广场边上一家餐厅点了啤酒，继续观察路人。

Dustin wanted to pee, so he ordered a beer at a restaurant by the plaza, and we continued to watch people.

很酷的喝法，先在杯子边缘抹上一圈辣椒粉，再把啤酒倒进玻璃杯里，喝的时候就又清凉又辣～

It's a cool way of drinking beers. First you put some chili power on the brink of the glass, and then you pour the beer into the glass, so when you drink your beer, you can taste it cold and spicy.

 

过一阵子不可思议的事又发生了，Dustin又想吃东西了，所以我们又走进菜市场让他吃了early dinner: enchiladas（35 pesos）。

After just a while, something incredible happened again... Dustin wanted to eat again! So we went to the market, and he had an early dinner: enchiladas (35 pesos).

然后再回到广场上休息，看人生百态。广场上满是擦皮鞋的先生跟他们的特制椅子，卖各种纪念品的妇女和小孩，墨西哥人一般来说生活很苦，所以只要会走路的小孩就要出来卖东西。休息的小女孩跟弟弟在喷水池玩水。

Then we went back to the plaza to chill out and watched people. There were lots of shoe-shiners and thier special chairs, women and children selling all kinds of souvenirs. Overall, most Mexicans are still very poor, so as soon as a child can walk, they should go out and help earn some money for their family. The little girl was playing water by the fountain with her brother during her break.

突然间听到音乐还有一阵骚动，我们才发现原来是游行，各个团体穿上代表性的服装。

Suddenly we heard music and commotion, and then found out that people were having a parade with different groups in representative costumes.

 

队伍渐渐离去后，一个穿著传统服装的小女孩拿了一个小杯子要我喝，我以为她想推销什么就摇摇手，望向Dustin，他叫我喝，结果我吓一跳，本来以为是类似寺庙里面的圣水，结果竟然是这里有名的酒mezcal，小女孩看我被呛到的表情非常开心。

When the parade was gradually leaving, a girl in traditional clothes showed me a small cup and invited me to drink. I thought she wanted to sell me something, so I waved my hands and looked at Dustin. But he told me to drink it. It surprised me, for I thought that was some holy water, like the one we have in temples, but it was actually mezcal! Seeing me choked and surprised, the little girl smiled.

 

游行散去。

After the parade was gone.

 

再来一张教堂晚照。

The church at sunset.

然后轮到我肚子饿了，就走回菜市场选了一家店吃quesadillas（15 pesos），一端上来时我都呆了，只是一片对折的tortillas夹了一些干巴巴的牛肉，卖相差到我连拍照都懒得拍了…不过吃起来还可以，不难吃。

And then it was my turn to hunt for food. So we walked back to the market to order enchiladas at another stand (15 pesos). I was shocked when I saw my enchiladas because it was just a folded dry tortillas filled with some dry beef strips. It looked so ugly that I didn't want to take a picture of it... It tasted ok. At least I filled my stomache.

 

吃完以后我的甜点胃开始叫，我就在路边摊买了三个小甜点，其中两个卡式达酱糕点里面的卡式达酱根本就不是卡式达酱，差不多可以说是卡式达果冻了…白色的鲜奶油倒还可以，然后糕点主体干硬不酥软，吃得我万分后悔。Dustin说墨西哥人的料理的确可算世上前几名有特色的，不过糕点部份根本就是屎！根据我的亲身体验我只能说「真的！」

After dinner, my dessert stomach started to make sounds, begging for some treats, so I bought three little pastries at a streetstand. Two of them were filled with custard that was nothing close to custard at all... it was almost custard jelly! The white thing like whipped cream was ok. And the pastry itself was dry and hard and not crispy or soft at all. I ate every morsel with regrets. Dustin said Mexican food is definitely one of the best in the world, but Mexicans' pastry is shit! Based on my personal experience, I could only say "That is so true!"

接著我们在一间有许多当地居民消费的小超级市场买了大瓶矿泉水，Dustin买了很多酒，然后漫步回遥远的hostal结束悠闲的一天。

After that, we bought drinking water at a small supermarket where many locals shopp, and Dustin purchased lots of alcohol, of course. We walked back to our remote hostal, and that was the end of our relaxing day.