The east coast railway carried Barnard’s party from a second night at Dingwall down through the Muir of Ord and a few miles further south to Beauly.  From there it was a carriage drive back north to the distillery and it is unclear why they didn’t stop at the nearby station of Muir of Ord to begin with.
         Barnard’s成员第二晚由东海岸铁路从丁沃尔Dingwall到达Muir of Ord，再往南几英哩到达Beauly比尤利。从那里回头往北到酒厂还要一段车程，目前还不清楚他们为什么第一站没有从Muir of Ord附近的车站开始。

Prior to Barnard’s visit Muir of Ord was the name for an area of land rather than a specific town.  The town was originally a small settlement known as Tarradale and was recorded as such on an 1881 map but had formally changed to Muir of Ord by 1906.  The town grew after the introduction of the railway, and the naming of the railway station as Muir of Ord when it was built in 1862 seems to have been the catalyst for the name Tarradale gradually falling out of use.
          在Barnard’s成员访问之前，Muir of Ord这个名字代表的是岛上的一个区域而不是特别代表一个城市。这个城市在1881年被地图上标记为Tarradale的小聚落，但1906年已正式更名为Muir of Ord。这个城市在引进铁路后开始繁荣，1862年完成的铁路车站以Muir of Ord命名似乎是Tarradale这个名称逐渐被淘汰的催化剂。

  Beauly的古修道院 

At Beauly he briefly mentions the ruins of the ancient Priory before they leave the town boundary.  The Priory was founded in 1230 AD as home to an order of Valliscaulian Monks from France and the name Beauly has a possible source from the French ‘beau lieu’ meaning ‘beautiful place’, although there may be a Gaelic origin too . The Priory is now a ruin and there is a chip shop nearby called, almost inevitably, the Friary – one of those names you would almost be disappointed if they hadn’t used.  Anyway, they do a good poke o’ chips when you are hungry from wandering between distilleries, ruins, stones, hotels, etc. etc.
        在离开Beauly的城市边界前，他简要提到的古修道院的废墟。修道院始建于西元于1230年，是从法国Valliscaulian来的修士定居的地方，Beauly的名称可能源自有在法语代表为美丽的地方，虽然也有可能源自盖尔语。现在的修道院是一片废墟，附近有一个卖薯条的店，而且几乎是不可避免的，取了一个会让你失望的名字就叫做Friary(修道院)。无论如何，他们做了一桶的薯条，当你逛了酒厂、废墟、石砌建筑和旅馆等等之后，就只有吃了。

 Beyond the town Barnard arrives at the farmstead of the distillery owner, Alexander Mackenzie.  We have left Ross country now and arrived in Mackenzie lands and Barnard recounts the tale of the ‘Raid of Gilchrist’ about a feud between the Mackenzies and their fierce enemies the MacDonalds of Glengarry.  It was one of those unsavoury inter-clan incidents that I won’t go into too much detail on as it involves large groups of clan members being burned alive within a church and an inn.  Anderson’s guide describes it as “one of the most sanguinary and brutal affairs that stain the annals of an age of general blood and rapine”, which didn’t stop Barnard giving over almost one fifth of his report to the story.
        离开了城市，Barnard到达酒厂老板Alexander Mackenzie亚历山大·麦肯齐的农庄。我们现在已经离开Ross罗斯镇抵达Mackenzie的土地，Barnard讲述“Raid of Gilchrist吉尔克里斯特的侵略”的故事，关于Mackenzies和他们凶猛的敌人MacDonalds of Glengarry之间仇隙。那是令人讨厌的部族内斗事件，我不太会描述因为它有太多的细节涉及到有一大群族人被活活烧死在一座教堂和小旅馆内。安德森的旅游指南指出，“是最杀戮和残酷的事件之ㄧ，染指了这个年代的史册，充满了血腥和掠夺。”这还无法停止Barnard讲述了几乎1/5的故事。

"Brahan Seer"的碑文预言

 Barnard notes that the Muir (Moor) of Ord was celebrated for periodical cattle markets and the tradition still continues with the location for the old markets now home to the Mannsfield Showground which has been run by the Black Isle Farmers’ Society for over 50 years.  Nearby are two standing stones that Barnard notes as commemorative and connected with the [Brahan Seer’s] prophesy of the extinction of the Mackenzie Clan.  He gleefully records that as the distillery owner goes by that name the prophesy has not yet come true and the whisky he produces is “daily imbibed by the descendants of those who foretold his clan’s effacement”.
          Barnard注意到Muir of Ord为了定期性的牲畜市场举办庆典并且继续保有传统，地点就在老市场，同时也是肖格朗德Mannsfield Showground的家，他在黑岛农民协会会长任职达50多年。附近有两个石碑，Barnard注意到"Brahan Seer"的碑文预言和Mackenzie家族灭绝之间的纪念性和关连性。他兴高采烈地记录著酒厂老板虽已成过去，但预言尚未成真，他生产的威士忌是“那些曾经预言他家族毁灭者的后裔，每日所饮用的威士忌”。

  非法蒸馏的展示

The distillery itself was then known as just Ord, the change to Glen Ord coming at a now uncertain later date.  The whisky was labelled as Glen Ord and also Glen Oran as far back as the 1880s, later as just Ord and even, in the 1980s, as Glen Ordie.  To the west is Glen Orrin, recorded by Barnard as Glen Oran, which he notes as a “favourite resort” for smugglers and illicit stills even at his time, the distillery itself having been built in 1838 on the site of an old smugglers bothy.
        当时酒厂的名字就是大家熟知的 Ord，在不确定的日期被改称为Glen Ord。威士忌被标示为Glen Ord和Glen Oran可以追溯到1880’s年代，后来甚至只有使用Ord，在1980’s年代曾经使用Glen Ordie。往西部是Glen Orrin，Barnard 记载为 Glen Oran，他指出这一段时间仍然是对于走私者和非法蒸馏者“最爱的地点”，酒厂于1838建立在一个走私者的简陋房舍旁。

  His comments on the water source are a little confusing but explainable.  He records the source as “Glen Oran and two lochs in the hills of Knockudas; and there are besides two reservoirs” and “The Oran rivulet, which proceeds from the glen, rattles along, close to the roofs of some of the buildings”.  The two lochs are Loch nan Eun and Loch nam Bonnach which lie beyond the adjoining hills of Cnoc Udais (his Knockudas) and Cnoc Croit na Maoile, also known as Ord Hill (from Gaelic for hammer/rounded hill) and whose northeast projections stretch almost to the distillery.
        他对于水源的意见是有点混乱，但可以解释的。他对于水源记录著“Glen Oran和Knockudas山丘里的两个湖;就在2个蓄水池旁”和“Oran的溪流从幽谷中潺潺流出，似乎就流向建筑物的屋顶”。这两个湖泊是那英湖nan Eun和nam Bonnach波那湖，依序的躺在紧邻的Cnoc Udais山谷旁和Cnoc Croit na Maoile，就是俗称的欧德谷(Ord hill)，（盖尔语指铁锤形/圆形山），往东北部沿伸过去几乎都是酒厂。

  Allt Fionnaidh (White Burn)

The two lochs feed the Allt Fionnaidh (White Burn) which is the water that rattles along past the distillery, the River Oran having turned north a couple of kilometres before reaching it.  The Allt Fionnaidh still feeds the large reservoir behind the distillery, itself rather than the stream being at a level close to the roof of the original maltings, and which drove two water wheels until the 1960s and still provides the cooling water.  Barnard doesn’t mention it but the mashing water was once brought from the Cuckoo Well but is now raised from boreholes down to an aquifer.
          两个湖泊的的水先后注入Allt Fionnaidh（White Burn）溪，再潺潺的流入酒厂，Oran河在到达目的之前的2公里转向北方。Allt Fionnaidh溪持续的把水注入酒厂后方的大型蓄水池，本身不是把溪水流入接近传统麦芽窑顶部的水平位置，而是用两个水轮，一直使用到1960’年代，而且仍然提供冷却水。Barnard并没有提及糖化水源曾一度从Cuckoo Well杜鹃井取出来，但现在是凿洞从地底层取出。

Barnard’s tour began by crossing a footbridge over the burn, likely where it flowed out of the reservoir in the lade, and entered the upper floor of the maltings which had an adjoining kiln heated with Dava peats, Dava being a large peat moor north of Grantown-on Spey.  Later in his report he notes that the distillery has a Heather House to store blossoms for adding to the peat in the kiln, an aromatic addition previously only noted at Highland Park although Barnard hints at a few more distilleries doing this.
         Barnard的游览从越过溪流的行人桥开始，可能是从蓄水池汲取水源的地方，进入麦芽窑的二楼毗邻著窑心正在使用Dava泥煤加热，Dava是大型泥煤取自斯贝Spey地区的格兰唐Grantown北部沼泽地。后来在他的报告指出，酒厂里有一个石南花屋储存了一些花朵，添加在泥煤然后在窑里使用，一种芳香以前只会出现在Highland Park，Barnard同时暗示现在很多酒厂都这么做。

  麦芽窑改成萨拉丁箱后方是麦芽仓库

Additional floor maltings and a further two kilns were built at right angles to this around the turn of the century and were used until 1961 when Saladin box maltings were built inside the original building that Barnard had visited.  These were used until 1983 when the distillery switched to using the huge malting plant that was built next door in 1968 and which uses drum maltings to supply a number of Diageo distilleries, as far a field as Talisker on Skye, Dalwhinnie to the south and  Clynelish  to the north.  Glen Ord’s malt is now very lightly peated at just 2ppm.
         添加的地板翻麦房子和另外两个窑，当时Barnard曾经访问过，刚好建于世纪交替的年代，一直到1961年时，才被旧大楼新建的萨拉丁箱取代，这些一直被使用到1983年，为了提供Diageo帝亚吉欧旗下其他酒厂的需要而转型为巨大的麦芽厂，于1968年于酒厂隔壁扩厂建立发芽桶，范围包括远到Skye司开岛的Talisker，南方的Dalwhinnie和北方的Clynelish等蒸馏厂，Glen Ord麦芽的泥煤值很轻只有2ppm。

 

 新式发芽桶式工厂 

Barnard recorded a good sized mash tun at 18 feet wide by 5 deep that supplied eight washbacks at 13,600 litres each.  As he left the Tun-room he saw through a window the two outside cylinder and tube condensers for the still house, which sat above a worm tub!?  Condensers were then a fairly recent innovation for distilleries so perhaps the worm tub used previously had been retained as a fall back?  The still house contained two old Pot Stills, the wash at 21,520 litres and spirit at 12,500 and all other processes here seemed fairly standard.
            Barnard记录著恰当尺寸的糖化槽宽1 8英尺，5英尺深，提供给每个容量为13,600公升的8个发酵槽。当他离开糖化槽的屋子，他透过窗户看到外面有两个蒸馏器的缸管式冷凝器，它曾经坐落在虫桶的上面吗?冷凝器当时对酒厂来讲是比较创新的，所以先前使用的虫桶被保存下来是为了自己保留后路？蒸馏室里有两个老旧的铜式蒸馏器，酒汁蒸馏器的容量为21,520公升，烈酒蒸馏器为12500公升，整个流程似乎相当标准。

There were no engines when Barnard visited, all power being provided by the two water wheels that have since been removed.  Even after hearing that Teaninich was the only distillery north of Inverness with electricity at that time it is still a surprise to learn that Glen Ord didn’t receive electricity until 1949, paraffin lamps having been used until then for lighting.
          在Barnard访问时还没有引擎发动机，所有的动能来自于2个已经被移除的水轮。Teaninich帝尼克当时曾经是Inverness北方唯一电力化的酒厂，Glen Ord却是一直到1949才开始电气化并停止使用石蜡灯，甚至听闻之后仍然会感到惊讶。

  游客中心和塔形屋顶

The distillery changed hands a couple of times before becoming part of DCL in 1925 and onward into Diageo today.  Aside from the extensive developments in malting on the site there have been further expansions over the last 50 years and I am grateful to Scott Christie for showing me around and for placing some of Barnard’s comments into context.  We began in one of those developments - the conversion of an old warehouse into one of the most informative visitor centres I have seen on this journey.
            酒厂在1925年成为DCL集团之前曾经2度易手，而随后并入今日的Diageo。除了致力于发展麦芽设备，在过去的50年已经有很大的进展，而且我对于Scott Christie能够引导我到处逛还有对Barnard的意见提出注解感到非常感谢。我们从这些的新设施之一开始.........一个旧仓库转换成我在这次旅程中看到的最翔实的游客中心之一。

 

There are a series of displays on the history of the distillery and on different aspects of the industry, including malting, milling, the cooperage, the coppersmith, the effect of different cask types and ages and an example of an illicit still.  There is a relaxing tasting room with a window showing inside the adjoining warehouse and here I saw for the first time the extended range of the Diageo ‘Classic Malts’ together in one display.  Glen Ord was previously one of Diageo’s ‘Hidden Malts’ but this category was disbanded and the whiskies added to the original six Classic Malts in 2006 along with some others, although Glen Ord has since dropped out again in the UK as it is now export only.
           那里有一系列关于酒厂历史的展示，还有关于这个产业不同的观点，包括发麦、磨麦、制桶、铜匠、不同木桶的类型和年龄的影响及非法蒸馏器的展示。有一个放松心情的品酒室从窗户可以看到里面毗邻著仓库内的展示窗口，从这里我第一次看到帝亚吉欧的“经典麦芽系列”延伸产品在一起展示。Glen Ord曾经是帝亚吉欧的“隐藏版麦芽系列”之一，但这一系列已经消失。而且这些威士忌连同其他的威士忌在2006年添加到6家”经典麦芽系列”，虽然Glen Ord再次退出英国市场，目前专做出口。

   经典麦芽系列

Scott next pointed out some of the old buildings, including the old maltings where the Saladin boxes operated, now without its kiln, and the adjoining kiln pagodas from the later maltings.  Inside new buildings we saw the new stainless steel semi-lauter mash tun installed in 2010 to replace the previous cast iron tun.  The tun takes a 12.5 tonne mash but only has two waters run through instead of the more common three.  There are still 8 washbacks but they now take a hefty 59,000 litres of wort each for a long fermentation of 74 hours.
          Scott 随后指出了一些旧大楼，包括曾经是萨拉丁发麦芽的老屋子，现在晚期的发芽屋子没有窑心和毗邻的塔形屋顶。在新建筑中，我们看到在2010年安装的新款不锈钢半莱特式糖化槽，以取代以前的铸铁式糖化槽，糖化槽有12.5公吨的容量，采用的是2次加水的糖化程序取代一般常见得3次加水的糖化程序。现在仍有8个发酵槽能够处里的麦汁每个高达59,000公升，他们采取了74小时的长时间发酵。

 蒸馏大楼

A new still house was built in 1966 and stands right by the country road that passes by, the stills at that time increased from 2 to 6 and changed from coal fired to steam heating.  The three wash stills are 18,500 litres and the three spirit stills are 16,000.  The stills are all ‘onion’ shaped with wide rounded bases and very slightly descending lyne arms.  The middle cut has a wider range than many distilleries, from 74% down to 58%.  There are no stray worm tubs sitting here any more and the water in the condensers has been preheated in the maltings, a by-product of drying the barley, to provide a slower condensing rate.
         新的蒸馏房子建于1966年，就矗立在县道路旁，当时的蒸馏器从2个增加到6个，煤炭直火式改变成蒸汽线圈加热式。三个酒汁蒸馏器容量18,500公升，三个烈酒蒸馏器16000公升。蒸馏器形状全是洋葱型还有非常宽大的底部，采用轻微下降的林恩臂，酒心收集的平均范围比其他酒厂还要广泛，从74%下降到58%为止，并没有使用虫桶来冷却，水流入冷凝器之前已经在麦芽厂预先加热；烘干麦芽时的附加产品，提供一个缓慢的冷凝速度。

  旧厂房

Barnard had tasted an 1882 make, so a 4yo at most, which he found “very agreeable to the palate”.  I enjoyed hints of ginger and orange in that rich 12yo Singleton, along with an interesting discussion with Scott about perceptions of whisky around the world; my thanks to him and the staff here for a memorable tour and their kind hospitality.
         Barnard当时尝到了4年以上的1882年份威士忌，他发现“非常令人愉悦的味觉”。我很喜欢丰富的12yo Singleton里带有生姜和柑橘味道，随后和Scott先生有一段有趣的讨论关于全世界威士忌产业的看法，我非常感谢他和这里的工作人员对我的的盛情款待，还有给我一个难忘的旅游。

  堆叠式酒窖

Around 15% of the whisky is bottled as single malt with the rest going into blends such as Dewars and Johnnie Walker.  The standard release is now called The Singleton of Glen Ord and is a 12yo that is not available in the UK, other than at the distillery.  This whisky has been produced specifically for sale in Asian markets (complementing the Singleton of Dufftown for UK retail and the Singleton of Glendullan for the US) and is from a 50/50 mix of sherry and bourbon casks.                                                                                                                                                                             大约只有15％的威士忌装瓶为单一麦芽，其余的将会拿去调和成为帝王和约翰走路等产品。相较于厂内的其他酒款，现在标准款被称为The Singleton of Glen Ord 12年，并没有在英国推出。这瓶威士忌已经专门在亚洲市场销售（补充:美国为the Singleton of Glendullan，英国是the Singleton of Dufftown），是采50/50的比例混合雪莉桶酒和波本桶酒。

 The distillery was producing 364,000 litres p.a. when Barnard visited but now has a capacity of up to 4m litres.  Barnard noted 8 warehouses and records one that was “built entirely of iron, quite a new departure in material for Bonded Warehouses, and highly recommended by Mr. Mackenzie” who may have been pulling his leg or was misunderstood as there is no record of it here now.  The warehouses then held 791,000 litres but now have a capacity for 15,000 casks, all in dunnage warehouses, although the spirit is first taken to Auchroisk distillery near Mulben in Speyside for casking.
               在Barnard参观酒厂时每年的产量是364,000公升，但现在的产量已经提升到4百万公升 。Barnard指出了8个仓库而且记录著其中有一间“完全是铁制的，对于保税仓库的材质来说是一种崭新的做法，这是MacKenzie先生强力推荐的”，或许他是在开自己的玩笑，也有可能是误用，只是现在都没有记录了。这些仓库当时存放了791,000公升的容量，但是现在的容量达到15000桶，全部放在堆叠式仓库，虽然这些烈酒是第一次从Speyside 的Mulben附近的Auchroisk酒厂运来陈年。

Once more Barnard included some lines of verse that are unaccredited, in this case being the last two verses of Robert Burns’ poem The Author’s Earnest Cry and Prayer, which we have discussed before when he quoted the same lines in his Kintyre Gistillery report from Campbletown, and which end with the rousing words “Freedom and whisky gang thegither, Tak aff your dram!”.  Whatever the reason for Barnard including it here, we both now finished our drams and headed south to Inverness, now leaving the cliffs, seascapes and verdant beauty of the northeast coast behind.
         Barnard又在未经授权的情况下引用了几行诗句，在这种情况下成为Robert Burns诗词里的2句“作家真挚的哭泣和祈祷”，是我们引述从Campbletown内Kintyre酒厂的报告中相同的几行诗句前是必须先讨论的，并利用带劲的话做结尾“Freedom and whisky gang thegither, Tak aff your dram!”.  不管Barnard在这里其包含的原因，我们现在已经完成我们的威士忌之旅，而且往南前往Inverness，离开了悬崖，海景和青翠美丽的东北海岸就在背后。

 

本文章原文和图片转登自WhiskyStory网站，作者是Dougie，主要是跟随著Alfred Barnard的足迹去探访苏格兰蒸馏厂，在1885年夏天起Barnard周游苏格兰各家酒厂，定期为伦敦酒类周刊撰写文章，他的旅游史记在1887年出刊。